city life

what a town. a major city, and it still has semi-secret spots 15 min from the cbd... blazes if they only work a handful of times a year. when they do they're goooood. i checked all these spots the other morning and there wasn't a soul out. me and my buddy surfed the one just bellow the boat pic. i was surfing with only one other dude, city and port as a backdrop. amazing. then i got scared out of the water by a friendly seal posing as a shark... but was right back out after i realized how much of a pussy i was... good times