It's not easy to make a change. Take giving up smoking for an example, you go through withdrawals, get grumpy and snappy, your friends keep smoking and it drives you crazy. I'm glad I never had to go through that. I'm only addicted to waves an women, to channel Spicoli for a moment.
Other changes are easy, like separating with the love of your life. All that has to happen is she dumps you and moves on. Then you're left sitting on your ass and kinda have to get on with it.
Yeah, changes suck.
So lifestyles and life-cycles are altered, focus is redirected and the world keeps spinning.
Through these changes loneliness and self-reflection abounds, but these are best utilized as moments for contemplation. Those still moments in the surf, out the back waiting for a set, with a vast sky stretching out above you and the ocean disappearing into the horizon. This is a focal moment in surfing. I know I've paddled out on a less then appetizing day just for those moments.
Change your scenery, change your mind. Change your fin setup, the toilet roll, your underwear and what you have for breakfast. If life throws you a change that is unexpected and unwanted, then change things on your own to balance the cosmos.
I got up early for a change and went for a surf.
It was a little thing, but I sat on my board and looked out to sea and waited, and life was fine.
Benefits counter the negatives, so on so forth.
Man, since that moment of clarity I lost 6 kilos, got a tan, and wake up at 8 every morning. I'm a fucking specimen of a man and I owe it all to surfing. images from aquabumps.com
3 comments:
good to see you writing. sounds like perhaps things have been better. the irony, the paradox about this life is that we cannot know pleasure without pain. perry says it in ain't no wrong, ain't no right. then there's ying and yang. getting barreled and getting tossed by the lip and held down. write some more will ya. it's always good stuff. water is still O C. here. you'd love it. ricardo
is that the hobbit with you?
good stuff my friend.....i m with you on that and if you need anything besides toilet paper....you know where i live.....
peace, sully
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